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American Smocking

American smocking is worked entirely on the reverse of the fabric and creates a dense puckered design on the front of the fabric. Traditionally the design is marked out as a series of dots, but a grid is much more effective.

Material and Design Notes

  • Almost any weight of fabric can be used, but fine fabrics may collapse too easily; this can be remedied by using plain or grid iron-on interfacing to stiffen the fabric.
  • Thick fabrics should be stitched using a large, widely-spaced grid, while finer fabrics can be smocked on a smaller grid pattern (5mm/¼in).
  • If you mark out your design with a vanishing pen or tailor’s chalk, the stitched side of the design could be used as the front.
  • There are many more designs possible than it is possible to show here, and you could easily create your own variations.

Prepare the fabric

The grid can be transferred to the reverse of the fabric using any of the marking methods, including iron-on transfer, vanishing pen or tailor’s chalk. You may find it helpful to transfer the markings from the chart as well as the grid. Note: Loops show where the stitch is pulled up and solid arrowed lines show where the stitch is left loose.

While the fastest way of preparing the design onto the back of the fabric is iron-on grid interfacing, you will find that it is harder to stitch through. The interfacing will stiffen the fabric, making it hold the shape well and the folds will be much crisper and more defined. However, a softer finish may be preferable and experimentation is the key.

Grid interfacing is most commonly available in 2.5cm (1in) squares and this has been used for all the samples shown. While 1cm (3⁄₈in) grid interfacing is also available this square size is probably too small except for the finest of fabrics, so lines at 2cm (¾in) would have to be drawn over the interfacing.

If using grid interfacing, draw the design directly onto it. If using a hand-drawn or transferred grid, mark the row numbers on the fabric for ease of reference.

Basic method

1). Prepare your fabric and transfer your chosen design onto the reverse of the fabric. Thread your needle with a strong thread, such as polyester, ensuring it is long enough to complete one row of the design and that it matches your fabric; make a knot at the end of the thread.

Basic method American Smocking A

2). You are ready to begin stitching. Each stitch picks up only a couple of threads, which hardly show from the front. Make the first stitch at the start point shown on the diagram, making two tiny stitches to fasten.

Basic method American Smocking B

3). Take the needle diagonally to the next point and pull up.

Basic method American Smocking C

4). Knot the thread by going back through the stitch.

Basic method American Smocking D

5). Make the next stitch, which is an unpulled stitch. Pick up threads at the required point then knot the stitch as in step 4, so that this stitch does not pull when you pull up the following stitch. Continue following the diagram to the end of the row. Return to the top to start the second row, using a new piece of thread.

Basic method American Smocking E


Lattice A

Lattice stitch diagram.

Lattice B

Lattice design worked in velvet.

Lattice C

Lattice design worked in tafetta.

Note : On the stitch diagrams, loops show where the stitch is pulled up and arrowed lines show where the stitch is left loose.


Arrows A

Arrows stitch diagram.

Arrows B

Arrows design in fine wool suiting, front.

Arrows C

Arrows design in fine wool suiting, reverse.


Grid A

Grid stitch diagram.

Grid B

Grid C

Grid design in silk dupion : front and reverse.


Boxes A

Boxes stitch diagram : the samples that follow are created using the same stitching guidelines shown here with variations in the manipulation of the fabric made after sewing.

Boxes B

Boxes design in organic cotton : the folds are pushed to the back of the work and the corner puffs emphasized.

Boxes C

Pressed boxes design in silk dupion : the folds are left to the front and then pressed down in neat arrangements.

Note : On the stitch diagrams, loops show where the stitch is pulled up and arrowed lines show where the stitch is left loose.

Close boxes

Close boxes A

Close boxes stitch diagram: loops show where the stitch is pulled up and arrowed lines show where the stitch is left loose. In this variation of Boxes each square is worked. Working on the reverse of the fabric, stitch around the box as marked, picking up a couple of threads at each corner, then pull up all the stitches together. Fasten firmly, then make one unpulled stitch to start the next box. Continue working across in this manner.

Close boxes B

Unpressed close boxes in cotton voile: the folds have been left to the front and unpressed, while the side folds have been finger pressed and manipulated into shape. The piece is worked with iron-on interfacing, which creates some stiffness in the fabric to allow for manipulation.

Close boxes C

Flowers worked on a soft, polycotton gingham which drapes well. It uses the same technique as Unpressed Close Boxes but worked in a different way. It is particularly effective in gingham (2.5cm/1in squares) due to the shading, but it can be worked also on plain fabric if a grid is drawn on in vanishing pen before stitching. To work, stitch the design from the front, pulling up the threads tightly then moving to the next box on the reverse of the fabric. Push the folds to the front to create the flower effect. The lower part of the sample shows how the technique works if you do not push all the folds to the front.

Close boxes D

Reverse of flowers: this shows the dark green blobs where the folds have been pushed through to the front. This is also an effective texture and could be used as the front fabric.

Fabric Manipulation
150 CREATIVE Sewing Techniques

Ruth Singer