Design Variation : Reversible Skirt and Scalloped Hem
Double your fun with a reversible skirt that is two garments in one. For even more versatility, make one side from a casual fabric for day, and choose a coordinating elegant fabric for the other side. If you want, you can omit the scalloped edge, making this project even quicker to sew.
Draft the Pattern
- Trace your basic customized skirt slopers (see chapter 3) onto drafting paper. Make sure the pattern doesn’t have any seam or hem allowances included yet. Adjust the patterns so they only have one dart in the front and back.
- Make the front extension. Trace the new skirt front onto drafting/ pattern paper. Flip it over and trace it again facedown, with the center fronts aligned to make one whole front skirt.
- Trace the skirt back onto the same pattern paper with the side seam aligned with the right side of the front. Draw a curved line as shown on the left front side, starting at the waist, curving to the hem at the center front.
- Draw a scalloped edge along the left side edge and hem, starting at the center back. You can use a can or large roll of tape as a template.
- Add seam allowances. Add a ½” seam allowance to the top edge and ¼” seam allowance to the dart at the side seam and to the scalloped hem. Be sure to add the hem allowance so it follows the curve of the scalloped edge.
- Make a waistband pattern. Measure across the top edge of the entire skirt, not including the darts or seam allowances. Draw a rectangle equal in length to this measurement plus 4″ long (for extension) × ¾” wide. Add ½” seam allowance all around.
PATTERN DRAFTING NOTE
This technique eliminates the side seams, transforming them into darts. The skirt shown is a wrap skirt, but you can use this method to eliminate side seams for any skirt, which is helpful if you don’t want to cut through a fabric print or border.
Sew the Double-Time Wrap Skirt
1). Cut out both fabrics. Use the newly drafted pattern to cut the following pieces. It is important to cut the skirt faceup on the right side of one fabric and facedown on the right side of the other fabric.
• From the outside fabric: one skirt with the center back on the fabric fold and two waistbands on the fabric fold.
• From the inside fabric: same pieces as the outside fabric.
• From interfacing: one waistband.
2). Apply interfacing. Following the manufacturer’s instructions, fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of one waistband.
3). Stitch the darts. With the right sides together stitch the darts on both the inside and outside skirts. Stitch the side seam darts with ¼” seam allowance.
4). Attach the two skirts. With the right sides together and scalloped edges aligned, stitch the two skirts together along the edges. To stitch a smooth scalloped edge, leave the needle in the fabric at the top point of each scallop, lift the presser foot, and pivot the fabric. Lower the presser foot and continue stitching.
This skirt is reversible, so you’ll need an inside fabric (or lining), and an outside fabric. Choose two fabrics you love so you can show off both sides. Because this skirt is double-sided, choose lighter-weight fabrics that won’t get too bulky.
- 2 yards of 44/45″ outside fabric
- 2 yards of 44/45″ inside fabric
- 1 yard of fusible interfacing
- 2 hook and eyes
- Matching thread
- Pinking shears (optional
5). Turn the skirts right side out, but first trim the scalloped edge using pinking shears. If you do not have pinking shears, use just the tips of your sewing scissors to clip into each curve, taking care not to clip the stitches. Turn the skirt right side out and press. Machine-baste the top waistline edges together.
6). Sew the waistband. With the right sides together, stitch the two waistbands together along the top, side, and the first 2″ from each end of the bottom edges, as shown. Trim the seam allowance at the corners. Turn the waistband right side out and press. Remember there is a 2″ waistband extension on both front edges because the skirt is reversible.
7). Attach the waistband. With the right sides together, pin one edge of the waistband to the skirt with the ends extending past the skirt front edge by 2″. Machine-stitch through one layer of the waistband and both skirt layers. Press the seam allowances toward the waistband.
8). Finish the waistband. Press the remaining waistband seam allowance to the wrong side and slipstitch the waistband closed.
9). Sew on the closure. Try on the skirt and mark the hook-and-eye locations on the waistband extensions and inside waistband. Take off the skirt and hand-sew a skirt hook at both ends and an eye at each coordinating mark.
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Tags: apply interfacing, attach the two skirts, attach the waistband, cut out both fabrics, draft the pattern, finish the waistband, sew on the closure, sew the double-time wrap skirt, sew the waistband, stitch the darts, turn the skirts right side out