Design Variation : Full Hemline and Gathered Waist
Full Hemline and Gathered Waist The following patternmaking method adds fullness to both the waistline and the hemline. Just as for the basic flared skirt, you slash and spread the bottom of the pattern. However, to create the gathered waistline, you also spread the top edge of the pattern. You will need to tape the pattern to drafting or patternmaking paper as you work.
Draft the Pattern
1). Trace your customized front and back slopers onto drafting paper. Trace the darts, but not the seam allowances. Lower the waistline and change the skirt length as desired on both the front and back slopers. Cut out the slopers around the outside edges.
2). Add flare to the skirt front.
a) Starting at the outermost dart point of the skirt front, draw a line straight down to the hemline. Make sure the line is also parallel to the center front. Draw a line from the inner dart to the hemline the same way. Then, draw a third line equidistant between the outer dart and the side seam. If you want even more fullness, add more evenly spaced slash lines. Cut out and discard the darts.
b) Working on a large piece of paper and a mat or board that you can pin into, tape the center front of the skirt front in place with lots of paper to the left of the sloper. Slash the first line from the dart to the hem, but not through the hemline. Secure the stilljoined bottom hem edge in place with a pushpin. Then spread the top edges apart the desired amount. The skirt shown here was spread 2″.
c) Transfer the pushpin to the top edge of the second segment as shown. Then spread the hemline by your desired amount. This skirt was spread 4″. Tape the edge in place and cut the second slash line as you did the first.
PATTERN DRAFTING NOTE : When I was in college, my professor called this technique the “rocking horse” because you pivot the pattern pieces back and forth. You can use this method to spread your pattern pieces apart as far as you like. Experiment and see what works for you and your designs.
d) Transfer the pushpin to the bottom of the second slash line. Then spread the top edge 2″ as before.
e) Transfer the pushpin again to the opposite top edge of the second slash line as shown. Spread the hemline 4″. Tape the edge in place and cut the remaining slash line from the top edge to the hemline.
f) Transfer the pushpin to the hemline of the last slash line and spread the top edge 2″.
g) Transfer the pushpin one last time to the remaining top edge. Then spread the hemline 4″. Tape the piece in place. To finish the pattern, extend the hemline 2″, or half the amount one slash line was spread at the hem. Draw a new side seam, connecting the new hemline to the waistline. This will eliminate the original hip curve.
3). Repeat the step 2 process for the skirt back.
4). Draft a two-piece waistband with separate facings as explained.
5). Complete the pattern. Add grainlines and registration marks. Add ½” seam allowances to all the skirt and waistband edges, plus add 1″ hem allowance. If your pattern pieces are too wide to cut them on the fold, add a ½” seam allowance to both center-front and center-back edges.
›› 1½ yards of 44/45″ fabric
›› ¾ yard of fusible interfacing
›› 7″ zipper
›› Zipper presser foot
›› Hook and eye
›› Matching thread
Sew the Girlie Show Skirt
1). Cut out the fabric. Use the newly drafted pattern pieces to cut the following (cut all pieces on the fold):
- From fabric : two skirt fronts, two skirt backs, two front waistbands and two back waistbands.
- From interfacing : one front and one back waistband.
Note : Larger sizes, or skirts with more flare, may be too wide to cut on the fold. In that case, you will need to add a seam allowance to the center front and center back, and cut out each piece separately. Double the yardage for the skirt for this approach.
2). Apply interfacing. Following the manufacturer’s instructions, fuse interfacing to the wrong side of one front and one back waistband.
3). Assemble fronts and backs. If you cut your skirt pieces on the fold, skip this step. Otherwise, with right sides facing, stitch the front pieces together along the center front, and stitch the back pieces together along the center back.
4). Make gathering stitches. Baste the top edge of the skirt front and the skirt back inside each seam allowance. Backstitch at only one end.
5). Sew the side seams. Keeping the basting stitches free of the seam, stitch the skirt front to the skirt back at the right side seam with the right sides together. Press the seam allowances open.
Follow the instructions to install the zipper in the left side seam.
6). Gather the top edge of the skirt front by gently pulling the bobbin thread of the basting stitch(es) from the non-backstitched edge. Gather the edge until it is the same size as the front waistband, and knot off the thread. Distribute the gathers evenly across the skirt front. Repeat for the skirt back.
7). Sew the waistband. With the right sides together, stitch the interfaced waistband pieces together at the right side seam.
Assemble and attach the one-piece waistband with separate facing and extension at the left side seam. Add a hook and eye above the zipper.
8). Hem the skirt. Press under a ½” double-fold hem and topstitch in place, or hem the skirt as desired.
CONSTRUCTION NOTES : The top edge of the skirt is gathered before the waistband is attached. It’s a good idea to gather the front and back separately so that you don’t run the risk of breaking the gathering threads. If your skirt is very full at the top, you might even consider gathering the skirt in four sections. This skirt has a zipper in the left side seam.
SKIRT-A-DAY SEWING Create 28 Skirts
For A Unique Look Every Day