Design Variation : Paper-Bag Waistline and Sash
Design a paper-bag-waist skirt by drafting a wide pattern at the waist and using pleats at the waist to cinch it in. The skirt shown here is drafted much like the Great Scot Skirt however, the top edge is finished with a facing instead of a waistband.
Draft the Pattern
1). Trace your basic high-waisted skirt front and back patterns onto drafting paper. Do not add any seam or hem allowances yet. Change the design to a one-dart silhouette. Draw three evenly spaced slash lines parallel to the center front, positioning one slash line along the dart leg. For more exact plotting instructions, see pleating for the Great Scot Skirt.
2). Draft the pleats. Decide how deep you want each pleat to be, and then double that amount. (The pleats in this skirt are about 1½” deep; the doubled measurement would be 3″.) Slash and spread the pattern by the doubled amount to create each pleat, and tape the spread pieces onto drafting paper. Mark the original waistline on the pattern. Repeat for the skirt back, positioning the pleats in the same way, but allowing for a center-back zipper.
3). Draft the facing pattern pieces. Fold the pleats and trace the top edge of the skirt front. Draw a line 4″ from and parallel to the top edge to mark the bottom of the facing pattern. Trace the facing pattern onto separate paper. Repeat for the skirt back (with a center-back opening).
4). Draft a sash. Draw a rectangle 3″ wide by the desired length (the sash for this skirt is 68″ long). The sash shown here has angled ends.
5). Add in-seam pockets. Follow the instructions to draft in-seam pocket patterns that start at the waistline and extend down as deep as you want.
6). Complete the pattern. Add grainlines (cut the skirt front and facing on the fabric fold) and registration marks to all of your pattern pieces. Add ½” seam allowances to all the seams and add a 1½” hem allowance.
›› 2 yards of 44/45″ fabric
›› ¾ yard of fusible interfacing
›› 11″ invisible (or regular) zipper
›› Invisible zipper presser foot
›› Hook and eye
›› 4 buttons
›› Matching thread
Sew the Hit the Sack Skirt
1). Cut out the fabric. Use the newly drafted pattern pieces to cut the following:
- From fabric : one skirt front and one front facing on the fabric fold, two skirt backs, two back facings, four pockets, and two sashes. Transfer all the pleat fold markings from the pattern to the fabric.
- From interfacing : one front facing on the fold and two back facings.
2). Apply interfacing. Following the manufacturer’s instructions, fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of the facings.
3). Install an invisible zipper in the center-back seam, joining the two back pieces together.
4). Sew the pockets and side seams. Follow the instructions to attach the pockets to the skirt front and sew the side seams.
5). Assemble the facing. With the right sides together and side seams aligned, stitch the two skirt back facings to the skirt front facing. Press the seam allowances open. Press the bottom edge and center-back seam allowances to the wrong side ½”. Topstitch along the bottom edge.
6). Attach the facing. With the right sides together and top edges and side seams aligned, stitch the facing to the top edge of the skirt. Press the seam allowance toward the facing and understitch. Hand-sew the facing to the zipper along the center-back opening.
7). Fold and pin the pleats in place, pressing the pleats from the top edge through the (marked) original waistline. Baste across the original waistline to secure the pleats in place.
8). Assemble the sash. With the right sides together and raw edges aligned, stitch the two sashes together, leaving an opening for turning. Clip the corners and turn the sash right side out. Press the sash, turning the seam allowance at the opening to the inside. Edgestitch around all the edges, closing the opening as you stitch.
9). Hem the skirt. Press under the bottom edge of the skirt ½” to the wrong side, then another 1″. Topstitch close to the inner folded edge, or sew the hem as desired.
10). Add belt loops if desired. This skirt has belt loops at the side seams to help hold the sash in place. For how to make and attach belt loops.
CONSTRUCTION NOTE : Because these pleats are partially stitched down, this skirt requires a zipper to get it on and off. However, if you don’t stitch the pleats, you get a true paper-bag effect and you can slide the skirt on and off without a zipper.
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