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How to Add Interlining to A Coat

WHAT IS IT?

Interlining is a layer of fabric placed between the lining and main fabric to provide extra warmth. This layer is completely hidden from the outside and the inside of the garment. Lambswool is the most luxurious interlining as it’s light, soft and warm. It may be hard to find, though, and it is quite expensive. Cotton flannel is an easy-to-find interlining fabric that’s affordable and easy to work with.

Interlining fabrics

Interlining fabrics

Interlined lining

Interlined lining

WHEN DO YOU USE IT?

Interline winter coats to make them extra warm. You might also add interlining to a winter suit jacket. The interlining is applied to the lining fabric before the lining is constructed, right after the pieces are cut out.

Tips + Notes

  • Remember to allow enough room for interlining when fitting the coat, especially if you’re using a bulky material such as lambswool.
  • You can also look for warmer lining fabrics as an alternative to interlining. Kasha lining is a thick polyester lining with a soft flannel backing. It’s warmer, thicker and, as a bonus, it’s easier to sew than thinner lining fabrics.

HOW TO ADD INTERLINING TO A COAT

Using your lining pieces as a guide, cut the same pieces from the interlining as you did for the lining. If the back lining is cut with a pleat, eliminate the pleat from the interlining. Sew the back pleat in the lining before adding the interlining layer.

How to add interlining to a coat (1)

Pin each interlining piece to its corresponding lining piece, matching the wrong side of the lining to the interlining. Baste (page link) all around each piece to secure the layers together.

How to add interlining to a coat (2)

If there are darts (page link) or tucks, make the darts and tucks (page link) in the lining and interlining as if it were a single layer.

For the sleeves, if you have two-piece sleeves, interline only the upper sleeve. The best-fitting coat sleeves are two-piece sleeves, as they follow the shape of the arm. But if you have a one-piece sleeve, decide whether to add interlining to the whole sleeve or to skip interlining the sleeves altogether.

Treat the lining and interlining as a single layer from this point forward. Sew the shoulder seams and side seams and follow the pattern instructions to insert this double-layer of extra warmth into your coat.

HOW TO QUILT INTERLINING

Quilt your lining to the interlining for a luxurious touch. Cut out both pieces, draw your quilting lines with chalk, pin the layers together between the lines and sew along lines through both layers. Work from one side to the other, smoothing out the layers so there aren’t any bumps or wrinkles.

How to quilt interlining

Source : The Sewtionary An A to Z Guide to 101 Sewing Techniques + Definitions
About the Author : Tasia ST. Germaine