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How to Easestitch with Machine Basting and Stretching

WHAT IS IT?

Easestitching is a technique used to sew a seam smoothly without puckers or gathers when you have one longer edge and one shorter edge to join.

Easestitching a sleeve

Easestitching a sleeve

Edges to be joined with easetitching

Edges to be joined with easetitching

WHEN DO YOU USE IT?

Easestitching works when there is only a little extra fullness to work into the smaller edge. If there is a lot of fullness, you will want to gather it (page link), pleat it (page link) or take it out with a dart (page link). Easestitching is used when joining skirts to waistbands and when sewing sleeve seams over the elbow and anywhere that a little bit of fullness has been added but needs to be smoothed out. Easestitching with machine basting (page link) is similar to gathering except that with easestitching the goal is a smooth seam, as opposed to gathering, which produces small pleats on one side.

HOW TO EASESTITCH WITH MACHINE BASTING

How to easestitch with machine basting (1)

Sew a row of machine basting (page link) just inside the seam line on the longer edge. For very curved areas, like the top of a sleeve cap, sew a second row in between the seam line and the raw edge.

How to easestitch with machine basting (2)

Pin the seam, right sides together. Match start and end points of the section to be eased, with a few points pinned in the middle.

How to easestitch with machine basting (3)

Pull up the machine basted thread very slightly to fit the shorter side.

How to easestitch with machine basting (4)

Sew the seam with the shorter side on top. Check that there are no puckers, and press.

HOW TO EASESTITCH WITH STRETCHING

This is best on natural fibers like cotton and wool or fabrics with a bit of give. Wool is great as it can be stretched, shrunk and shaped with steam. On delicate fabrics, easestitch with machine basting instead of stretching.

How to easestitch with stretching (1)

Pin the seam, right sides together, matching start and end points of the section to be eased with a few pins in between.

How to easestitch with stretching (2)

Sew the seam with the shorter side on top. As you sew, stretch the shorter side to match the longer side. Sew slowly and check for puckers as you go. Press, steaming slightly to shrink out any fullness.

Source : The Sewtionary An A to Z Guide to 101 Sewing Techniques + Definitions
About the Author : Tasia ST. Germaine