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How to Edgestitch

WHAT IS IT?

Edgestitching is a type of topstitching (page link) that is sewn very close to the edge.

Edgestitched pocket

Edgestitched pocket

Edgestitched cuff

Edgestitched cuff

WHEN DO YOU USE IT?

Edgestitching is used around collars, on waistbands, around patch pocket edges (page link) and anywhere a very close topstitch would look good. Edgestitch to attach bias tape (page link) or binding (page link) or to sew appliqués (page link) by machine. Edgestitching is also used to secure waistbands to skirts and pants or to close an opening that was used to turn something right side out. For example, a tie belt requires an opening left to turn it right side out. You can slipstitch (page link) or you can edgestitch to close the opening.

HOW TO EDGESTITCH

How to edgestitch (1)

Simply sew on the right side of your garment, getting your stitching as close to the edge as you can maintain without crossing over the edge. Press after edgestitching.
If you’re finding it difficult to sew close to the edge without falling off, try switching to a zipper foot with the needle on the right side of the foot. This way more of the fabric is under the foot, making it easier to sew.

How to edgestitch (2)

Depending on where the start and end points of your edgestitching fall, you may want to backstitch or you may not want to. I usually backstitch (page link) if the end point is going to be hidden or covered by another seam. If the end point is going to be visible, then stitch in place to secure the end or pull the threads to the back and tie them in a knot.

HOW TO EDGESTITCH A SEAM

To edgestitch a seam, work from the right side of the garment. Pull the seam apart gently with your fingers and stitch as close as you can to the seam line without crossing over. Sew from top to bottom, following the seam line as you go.

Edgestitch an opening closed

Edgestitch an opening closed

HOW TO EDGESTITCH AN OPENING CLOSED

When the instructions ask you to slipstitch (page link) an opening closed, you may be able to replace the slipstitching with edgestitching. This works well if the stitching blends into the fabric or if the opening is in a hidden place. Depending on what part of the garment you are working on, you may want to continue the edgestitching all around the piece. For example, if you are edgestitching a waistband, you may want to edgestitch all the way around the waistband so that the stitching looks intentional.

To edgestitch an opening closed, press it in place, turning the seam allowances in evenly with the rest of the seam. Start at the end of the opening, backstitch, and sew to the other end, getting as close to the fold as you can without falling off the edge.

Source : The Sewtionary An A to Z Guide to 101 Sewing Techniques + Definitions
About the Author : Tasia ST. Germaine