WHAT IS IT?
A placket is a finished opening that allows garments to fit over the body. Plackets are commonly used at the cuff and at the front or back neckline. Plackets can be fairly simple or more elaborate, visible or hidden, made in contrast fabric as a design feature or self-fabric to blend in. They may sit open or close up with buttons or a zipper.
Placket on a shirt
Continuous bound placket
WHEN DO YOU USE IT?
Plackets are used when the garment needs to open more than the current opening allows. For example, you’ll see plackets used on polo shirts, because the neck opening with the collar alone isn’t large enough to get over the head. If your neck opening is too tight on a blouse or dress, consider adding a small placket at the center back neck for extra ease (page link). Also, if you want to add a zipper in a garment where there is no seam, a slashed placket gives you an opening to insert the zipper. Plackets can be set in a seam, added to a seam or sewn to a slash in the garment.
Tips + Notes
- If your fabric is sheer or slippery, consider using a stable fabric for your plackets.
HOW TO SEW A FACED PLACKET
This is the easiest type of placket to sew. Use it for cuffs or at the neckline, or for zipper openings where there is no seam to insert a zipper. The placket will reduce the top edge of the garment by ½” (1.3cm), so make sure there is enough fullness to account for this amount. If not, add it back to the side of the piece.
Cut a piece of facing that’s at least 1″ (2.5cm) longer than the opening and 3″ (7.6cm) wide. Interface (page link) the placket if desired. Finish the edges (page link) of the placket by serging the edges, turning them under and stitching (page link) or zigzagging (page link)
Lay the placket piece on the garment piece, right sides together, line up the raw edges and center the placket where you want the opening to be. Pin or baste (page link) the placket in place. Draw a line straight down the center of the placket. Stop 1″ (2.5cm) above the end of the placket. Sew ¼” (6mm) on one side of the marked stitching line, sew one or two stitches across the bottom, and sew ¼” (6mm) up the other side of the stitching line.
Slash along the marked line, then turn the placket to the inside of the garment, and press. Baste across the top edge to hold the facing in place.
HOW TO SEW A CONTINUOUS BOUND PLACKET
This is a fairly simple placket used for cuff openings. It’s set into a slash opening. You’ll need a strip of fabric 1½” (3.8cm) wide, cut on the bias and double the length of the placket.
Staystitch (page link) about 1⁄8″ (3mm) outside the slash opening on either side before cutting it open, using small stitches at the top of the slash to reinforce (page link) the opening. Cut along the opening, right up to the stitching line at the top, without cutting through the stitches.
Press under ¼” (6mm) on one long side of the fabric strip. Pin the unpressed edge of the strip to the slashed opening with a ¼” (6mm) seam allowance. Spread the cut opening open so you can sew in a straight line. Sew with the garment side up. The slashed opening will not meet the raw edge of the placket in the center, as shown.
Press the seam toward the fabric strip. Turn the folded edge of the strip to meet the stitching line and edgestitch (page link) or slipstitch (page link). Fold the placket in half so the raw edges line up, and stitch across the corner of the placket at a 45° angle two or three times to keep the fold in place.
Source : The Sewtionary An A to Z Guide to 101 Sewing Techniques + Definitions
About the Author : Tasia ST. Germaine