WHAT IS IT?
A godet, pronounced go-DAY, is a triangular insert at the edge of a garment. Godets are used to add volume to a garment at the hemline. On narrow garments, for example a slim skirt, godets are added to allow movement. On already wide garments, godets are added as decorative elements, as a place to insert other fabrics or to add even more volume. Godets can be small triangles or as big as quarter or half circles!
WHEN DO YOU USE IT?
Add godets to a straight skirt to add flare, to add room to move or to add volume. Sewing godets in a narrow skirt will change the silhouette from straight to flared. If your garment has a center back seam, that is a natural place to add a godet in place of a slit. Make godets in the same fabric as your garment, in contrast fabric or even sheer or lace fabrics. Set godets into a seam, slash or cutout of the garment.
HOW TO SEW A GODET
On the godet, make a mark at the top of the triangle where the seam allowances intersect. Sew the seam above the godet, leaving open where the godet will be attached. Pin the godet to the seam allowance: line up the marking on the godet piece with the start of the seam, and sew with the garment side on top from the hemline to the start of the previous seam stitching. Press the seam allowances toward the garment.
To add topstitching (page link), topstitch the godet on the garment side, not the godet side, and continue the line of stitching on either side of the seam line above the godet.
Source : The Sewtionary An A to Z Guide to 101 Sewing Techniques + Definitions
About the Author : Tasia ST. Germaine