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How to sew a Hong Kong Seam Finish

WHAT IS IT?

A Hong Kong finish is a type of seam finish that uses strips of fabric to enclose the seam allowances. It’s similar to the bound seam finish (page link) but is constructed in a different manner.

Hong Kong finish with solid tape

Hong Kong finish with solid tape

Hong Kong finish with bias tape

Hong Kong finish with bias tape

WHEN DO YOU USE IT?

A Hong Kong finish is perfect for unlined garments, such as coats and jackets, in medium to heavyweight fabrics. It’s also great for unlined summer garments. Use a Hong Kong finish on seams that will be pressed open.

Tips + Notes

You may find it easiest to work on both sides of the seam allowance at the same time. For example, you might sew the binding to both sides before proceeding to pressing.

HOW TO SEW A HONG KONG SEAM FINISH

Cut two strips of 1″-wide (2.5cm) bias tape (page link) the length of your seam. You can use store-bought bias tape, if you like, or make your own. If the tape is already folded, unfold it and press it flat.

How to sew a Hong Kong Seam Finish (1)

Sew the seam with a regular 5⁄8″ (1.5cm) seam allowance. Press the seam open. Now pin one strip of bias tape to one seam allowance, right sides together. Sew with a ¼” (6mm) seam allowance.

How to sew a Hong Kong Seam Finish (2)

Press the bias tape flat by pressing the seam toward the bias tape.

How to sew a Hong Kong Seam Finish (3)

Arrange your piece so the garment layers are all to the left and only the seam allowance layer is on your work surface. Fold the bias tape over the seam allowance and to the inside. Press to set the fold.

How to sew a Hong Kong Seam Finish (4)

Stitch in the ditch (page link) between the bias binding and the seam allowance only, not through the garment layer.

Trim any extra bias tape from the underside of the seam. Repeat for the other side of the seam allowance.

Source : The Sewtionary An A to Z Guide to 101 Sewing Techniques + Definitions
About the Author : Tasia ST. Germaine