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How to sew Inseam Pockets with Separate Pocket Bags

WHAT IS IT?

Inseam pockets are pockets sewn into the seam of a garment. The pocket bag is either cut as an extension of the seam or attached as a separate piece. Inseam pockets are flat and nearly invisible from the right side of your garment. They’re also easy to add to any pattern with side seams or front princess seams.

Inseam pocket in Cambie Dress

Inseam pocket in Cambie Dress

Inseam pocket in wool coat

Inseam pocket in wool coat

WHEN DO YOU USE IT?

Inseam pockets are perfect to use when you don’t want the pockets to be visible or obvious from the right side of the garment. Side seams are the most common place to put them; another option is on princess seams on the front of a garment. Inseam pockets are one of the easiest pockets to add when your pattern doesn’t call for pockets, and they won’t compete with the rest of the design.

There are three types of inseam pockets: with separate pocket bag pieces, with pocket bags cut as an extension of the seam allowance (cut-on) or with separate pocket bag pieces and a cut-on extension. They’re all sewn the same way, with slight variations.

Tips + Notes

  • Want to add inseam pockets to a pattern without pockets? Use the inseam pocket piece from a pattern you already own. Simply borrow the pocket pattern piece and mark the pocket opening on the seam line where you want to add a pocket.
  • If you’re adding inseam pockets to a pattern without pockets, be sure to choose a design with enough ease to get your hands in the pockets. Inseam pockets might not work well in a tight pencil skirt!
  • If you’re sewing inseam pockets in a fully lined garment, skip the steps to finish the seam allowance. The seams will be enclosed in the lining and won’t fray.
  • You may want to reinforce pocket openings with stay tape (page link) to strengthen pockets that will be frequently used.

HOW TO SEW INSEAM POCKETS WITH SEPARATE POCKET BAGS

How to sew Inseam Pockets with Separate Pocket Bags (1)

For each inseam pocket, cut two pocket bag pieces. If your fabric has a visible right and wrong side, make sure you have two pairs. Mark the pocket opening on both the pocket bag pieces and the seam. Snip ¼” (6mm) notches into the seam allowance. Finish the seam allowances of the side seam. Finish all seam allowances of the pocket piece. If serging or zigzagging makes the edges ripple, press to flatten them out. Pin the pocket piece to the seam, right sides together, matching notches.

How to sew Inseam Pockets with Separate Pocket Bags (2)

Sew with a 3⁄8″ (1 cm) seam allowance. Press the seam toward the pocket. Understitch (page link) on the pocket side, if desired, to keep the pocket bag seam secured in the right direction. Repeat steps 1 and 2 for the other side of the pocket bag.

How to sew Inseam Pockets with Separate Pocket Bags (3)

Line up the pocket pieces on top of each other, right sides together, matching the top and bottom. Sew the seam with a 5⁄8″ (1.5cm) seam allowance around the pocket bag and the remainder of the seam.

How to sew Inseam Pockets with Separate Pocket Bags (4)

Press seam allowances and the pocket bag toward center or the direction that feels most comfortable when you place your hands in the pockets. The finished inseam pocket is flat and nearly completely hidden!

HOW TO SEW INSEAM POCKETS WITH CUT-ON POCKET BAGS

Simply place the two pieces right sides together and sew along the seam, pivoting around the pocket piece, and continue down the rest of the seam in one motion.

HOW TO SEW AN INSEAM POCKET WITH AN EXTENSION AND SEPARATE POCKET BAG

Sew the pocket piece to the seam extension, finish the seams and press the seams toward the pocket. Follow the same steps to sew inseam pockets with cut-on pocket bags.

Source : The Sewtionary An A to Z Guide to 101 Sewing Techniques + Definitions
About the Author : Tasia ST. Germaine