Design Variation : Flared Vertical Panels
In fashion design, vertical panels are referred to as gores. The straight skirt features gores with godets at the hem. If you would like to add panels to your skirt, but also want the hemline to have more flare than a straight skirt, a few more steps are necessary. The flare needs to be drafted into each panel as shown in the next pages.
Draft the Pattern
1). Trace the front and back slopers onto drafting paper. Do not add seam or hem allowances, but do trace the darts.
2). Draft the gores on the skirt front.
a) At the inner darts, draw a line parallel to the center from the dart point to the hem. Label each segment with a number as shown.
b) Measure the width of the outer front dart (x) and increase the width of the inner dart by the measurement. This eliminates the need for the outer dart (you can cross it out so you don’t get confused).
c) At the hemline of the skirt front, measure and mark 1½” on both sides of the drawn design line. With a yardstick or ruler, draw two new design or “gore” lines connecting the dart point to the new marks at the hem. Then extend the hemline at the side seam 1½”. Draw a new side seam as shown, connecting the fullest part of the hip to the hem.
PATTERN DRAFTING NOTE : The basic sloper works as a starting point for this skirt. However, if you would like to add more flare, start with the flared pattern or a pattern that has already been transformed into an A-line shape, following the directions
3). Draft the skirt back. On the skirt back sloper, redraw the inner dart so it is a total of ½” wider and ¾” longer. Redraw the outer dart so it is ½” smaller (take ¼” off each side). Then, follow step 2 to draw two new gore lines.
4). Trace the four new pattern pieces onto drafting paper following the new gore lines. You can’t cut out the pattern pieces because they overlap at the gore lines. Refer to the illustration below for help knowing how to cut the pieces.
5). Complete the pattern.
- Add the grainlines and registration marks.
- Add ⅜” seam allowances to the top edges of the gores and ½” seam allowances to all the other edges.
- Add 2″ hem allowances to each piece.
- No waistband is necessary since the top edge of the skirt is finished with a waist stay.
›› 1½ yards of 44/45″ fabric
›› 1½ yards of 44/45″ lining
›› 1 yard of Petersham ribbon for waist stay
›› 7″ zipper
›› Zipper presser foot
›› Hook and eye
Sew the Line-by-Line Skirt
1). Cut out the fabric. Use the newly drafted pattern pieces to cut the following from both the main fabric and the lining fabric: one skirt center front (#1) and skirt center back (#3) on the fabric fold, two side fronts (#2) and two side backs (#4).
2). Assemble the skirt front and back. With the right sides together and raw edges aligned, stitch the center front gore to the side front gores. Press the seam allowances open. Repeat with the centerback gore and side back gores.
With the right sides together and side seams aligned, stitch the right side seam.
3). Install the zipper. Referring prepare and stitch the left side seam, and install a lapped zipper.
4). Assemble the lining. Repeat step 2 to assemble the lining, leaving the zipper area unstitched.
5). Attach the lining. Press the lining seam allowance along the zipper opening to the wrong side. Then, with the wrong sides together, gore seams aligned, and top edges aligned, baste the lining to the skirt along the top edge. Slipstitch the pressed edge of the lining to the zipper.
6). To finish the top edge, cut a waist stay from Petersham ribbon and attach it as for the High Definition Skirt.
7). Hem the skirt. For the lining, press under a 1″ double-fold hem and topstitch the hem in place. For the skirt, press under the hem ½”, then 1½”; hand-sew or machine-blindstitch in place.
DESIGN NOTE : This skirt features a lining and a stay to finish the waistline. If you would rather add a waistband, for how to draft and sew one.
SKIRT-A-DAY SEWING Create 28 Skirts
For A Unique Look Every Day