Design Variation : Release Tucks
Tucked pleats, also called released tucks, are a combination of a tuck and a pleat. However, unlike the tucks shown, these are sewn with the right sides together. They also only add fullness to the waistline, leaving the hemline to swing unchanged.
Draft the Pattern
1). Trace your basic flared skirt front and back patterns onto drafting paper. Make the following adjustments:
- Do not add any seam or hem allowances yet, but do trace the darts. The front has a center zipper, but the center back can be cut on the fabric fold.
- For both front and back slopers, draft a high waist following the instructions.
- Draft a contoured waistband with a center front opening.
- For the front sloper only, add a slash line extending from the dart point to the hemline. (The back of the skirt has a normal dart.) Cut out and discard the dart.
2). Slash the dart open along both dart legs and then down the slash line to the hem. Don’t cut through the hemline. Spread the pattern by your desired tuck amount (this skirt was spread about 1½”).
3). Draft the tucks. Draw stitching lines for the tucks along the original dart legs. Measure from the top edge to the desired tuck length (the tuck for this skirt was 7″ long). At that point draw a horizontal line from dart leg to dart leg, as shown. Add ½” seam allowance at all the seams, including the edges of the tuck.
4). Complete the pattern. Add grainlines and registration marks to all of the pattern pieces and 2″ hem allowance.
›› 1½ yards of 44/45″ fabric
›› ¾ yard of fusible interfacing
›› 11″ zipper
›› Zipper presser foot
›› Matching thread
Sew the Nip and Tuck Skirt
1). Cut out the fabric. Use the newly drafted pattern pieces to cut the following:
- From fabric : two skirt fronts and four front waistbands; one skirt back and two back waistbands on the fabric fold.
- From interfacing : one back waistband on the fold and two front waistbands.
2). Apply interfacing. Following the manufacturer’s instructions, fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of two front waistbands and one back waistband.
3). Stitch the front tucks. With the right sides together and raw edges aligned, stitch each tuck closed. Stitch from the top edge and pivot across the bottom of each tuck; backstitch or knot the threads. Then press each tuck toward the side seam.
4). Stitch the back darts.
5). Sew the side seams. With the right sides together and edges aligned, stitch the skirt fronts to the back at the side seams. Press the seam allowances open.
6). Assemble the waistband and waistband facing. With the right sides together and edges aligned, stitch the two front interfaced waistbands to the back interfaced waistband at the side seams. Press the seam allowances open. Repeat with the remaining waistband pieces to make the waistband facing. Press the bottom and center front seam allowances of the facing to the wrong side.
CONSTRUCTION NOTE : Sew the tucks before joining the skirt front and back together at the side seams.
7). Attach the waistband. With the right sides together and top edges aligned, stitch the assembled waistband to the skirt. Make sure the side seams are aligned and the center front edges meet. Press the seam allowance toward the waistband and understitch.
8). Install an exposed zipper to the center-front seam. Finish the remainder of the seam.
9). Attach the waistband facing. With the right sides together and raw edges aligned, stitch the waistband facing to the waistband at the top edge. Fold the facing inside the skirt and hand-sew the center front facing edges in place along the zipper opening. Sew the bottom edge to cover the waistband seam.
10). Hem the skirt. Press under the bottom of the skirt ½” to the wrong side, then another 1½”. Hand-sew close to the inner folded edge, or sew the hem as desired.
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