Design Variations : Tucks and Lining
Tucks are essentially just folds of fabric or pleats stitched in place from the right side of a garment. They can be drafted to any width and are a cinch to sew. You can make a cluster of them as it was done for this skirt, or create a design with them positioned all over your garment.
Draft the Pattern
1). Trace your basic wrap skirt slopers onto drafting paper. Make sure they do not have any seam or hem allowances included yet.
2). If want to lower the waistline, draft those changes now following the directions.
3). Draft a two-piece waistband by drawing a design line for a 1½”- wide waistband and cutting it off. Draft the waistband and facing patterns using the cut-off waistbands.
- 2⅞ yards of 44/45″ fabric
- 2¼ yards of 44/45″ lining fabric
- 1 yard of fusible interfacing
- 2 snaps
- Matching thread
- Temporary fabric marker
4). Plan the tucks. You can design your tucks so they are horizontal, vertical, or even diagonal. Consider both the front and back of the skirt. Practice folding tucks in your fabric to make sure you like the spacing and width. When you’re satisfied, multiply the desired depth (width) of each tuck by two to determine the tuck intake. Draw straight lines on the paper for each tuck, spacing them as far apart as desired and allowing for the tuck intake needed for each tuck. Crease the tucks into the paper following the design lines.
5). Position the sloper front (from step 2) on top of the tucked paper and trace the outside edges and dart(s). Cut out the pattern and unfold the tucks for the skirt front pattern. Repeat with the sloper back.
PATTERN DESIGN NOTE : Determine where you want your tucks and how deep you want them to be before you draft your pattern. Practice sewing a few tucks on a scrap of your chosen fabric to see how the fabric behaves and how different widths look. This skirt features four vertical tucks on the right front and six horizontal tucks close to the hemline around the entire skirt. The tucks are ½” deep.
6). Draft the lining patterns by tracing the front and back slopers from step 2, after you have made any waistline changes but before you have added the tucks. Trim ½” away from the center front and back edges, and hemlines of both slopers. Mark these as the lining front and back.
7). Draft the ties. For the skirt shown here, the finished ties are the same width as the waistband, but you can make them as wide or narrow as you like. (Finished ties are 1″ wide and 32½” and 47½” long. They are different lengths because one wraps farther around the body.) Draft a rectangle to the desired width and length, or measure and cut directly on the fabric (just remember to add seam allowance).
8). Complete the pattern. Add ½” seam and hem allowances around all the pieces, including the lining.
Sew the Quick Draw Skirt
1). Cut out the fabric. Use the newly drafted pattern pieces to cut the following :
• From fabric : two skirt fronts (if you designed the skirt fronts differently, cut them separately), one skirt back on the fabric fold, four front waistbands, one front left tie and one front right tie, and two back waistbands on the fabric fold.
• From lining fabric : two skirt fronts and one skirt back.
• From interfacing : two front waistbands and one back waistband on the fold.
2). Apply interfacing. Following the manufacturer’s instructions, fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of two front waistbands and one back waistband.
3). Stitch any darts in the skirt front and back.
4). Sew the side seams. With the right sides together, stitch the skirt fronts to the back at the side seams. Mark the tucks onto the skirt using a temporary fabric marker. Clean finish each center-front raw edge with a ¼” double-fold hem, topstitched close to the inside fold.
5). Sew the tucks one at a time.
a) Fold the first tuck in the skirt with the wrong sides together.
b) Stitch the tuck along the marked line, or the desired tuck depth distance from the fold, then backstitch. Repeat for each tuck and then press them in the desired direction.
6). Assemble the lining. Stitch any darts in the lining front and back pieces. Then, with right sides together, stitch the lining fronts to the back at the side seams. Finish each center-front raw edge as in step 4, or as desired.
7). Attach the lining. With the wrong sides together, pin the lining to the outer skirt with the top waist edges and side seams aligned. Baste them together at the top waist edges (the lining should be ½” shorter and narrower than the outer skirt).
8). Assemble and attach the waistband and ties following the steps, making sure to leave a slit in the right side seam of the waistband for the tie to slide through. Hem the skirt and the lining separately using your desired hemming technique, or as you clean finished the front edges.
9). Finish the skirt. Try on the skirt and shorten the length of the ties as desired.
CONSTRUCTION NOTE : Tucks are sewn with the wrong sides together so the stitching is visible from the right side. I used a thread that matched my fabric, but you can use a contrasting one to make your tucks stand out even more.
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