Finished size : 12″ × 13″
Don’t you love to hang the sheets outside on a gorgeous summer day? This fun pattern will help corral the pins—or pegs—in a pretty and practical place.
Materials and Supplies
- 4 coordinating fat quarters (18″ × 21″)
- 1¼ yards ½″-wide double-fold bias tape
- Small scrap of double-sided fusible web
- Child-size clothes hanger
If you like the idea of leaving your clothespin bag outside all summer long, then switch to an outdoor fabric. These fabrics are mold- and fade-resistant, so they can weather the elements.
Enlarge the clothespin bag pattern by 200%, copy or trace onto card stock, and cut it out. If you’re tracing, make sure to copy all the lines and markings onto the pattern.
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cutting it out
TIP : Use a pair of pinking shears to cut out all the pieces to quickly finish off your seams.
Fat Quarters A and B
Choose 2 fat quarters—a fabric for the back of the bag and a fabric for the back lining (you won’t see very much of this fabric in the finished bag). Layer the 2 fat quarters, right sides together, with the lining piece on top. Trace the outside of the full pattern and the dots at the top onto the wrong side of the lining. Make sure to orient any directional prints correctly. Cut out both pieces.
Fat Quarter C
- Trace the full pattern on the wrong side of the fat quarter you want for the front of the bag. Mark the dots as in the previous step and the horizontal bag front cutting line across the bag. Cut out the bag front.
- Cut the bag front along the horizontal line into 2 pieces—a top and bottom bag front.
Fat Quarter D
Fold the pattern on the pocket line, trace only the lower half onto the wrong side of the remaining fat quarter, and cut it out.
sewing it up
1). Refer to Bias Tape to sandwich and edgestitch the ½″-wide double-fold bias tape on the upper edges of the pocket and the bottom bag front, and the lower edge of the top bag front. You can use purchased bias tape or make your own. Trim the ends of the bias tape even with the sides of the pieces.
2). Layer the pocket onto the bottom bag front, both right sides up. Pin and baste the 2 pieces together along the sides.
3). Layer the bag back lining, wrong side up; the bag back, right side up; and the basted bag bottom front/pocket unit, wrong side up. Align these 3 pieces at the bottom corners. Place the top bag front at the top of the layered pieces, also wrong side up. Align all the pieces at the top, and pin and baste all the layers together.
4). Using a ¼″ seam allowance, stitch the bag together from dot to dot all around the edges, leaving the top open and backstitching at the beginning and end, and along the sides of the bag front opening, over the bias tape.
5). Fold the loose end piece at the top of the bag front over to the wrong side and press flat. This creates a hem at the top opening for the clothes hanger. Cut a piece of fusible web 1″ × 8″, remove any paper backing, and slide it up into the fold. Cut off any excess tape. Iron the hem closed.
6). Repeat Step 5 on the other side of the bag, folding over both the back and back lining together as a single piece.
7). Trim and clip the seam allowances of the 2 bottom corners and along the curves. Serge or zigzag the seam allowances to finish them, if you want. Turn the bag right side out through the front opening and press; be sure that the seams are flat and the corners are sharp.
8). Sewing ½″ in from each side of the bag, stitch over the 2 rows of bias trim at the upper opening, backstitching at the beginning and end. This will hide the seam allowances on the inside of the bag and add strength to the opening.
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