Finished size : customizable
Pocket panel : 4½″ × 7¾″
Let’s get creative with our ironing space. This project can turn any flat surface into an ironing station. So look around your craft/sewing room; maybe a bookshelf or dresser can be retrofitted into an ironing table. By doing so, you can eliminate your ironing board and make room for something new. Don’t have a permanent craft room? You can still make this and stash it between uses.
Materials and Supplies
- Quantity of materials required will vary based on size of table.
- Table, dresser, or bookshelf that is counter height
- ¾″-thick plywood, cut to fit tabletop
- Cotton canvas, twill, or heavyweight home decor fabric for ironing table cover
- Metalized Mylar insulated interfacing, 45″ wide, such as Insul-Fleece by C&T Publishing
- ⅜ yard ½″-wide double-fold bias tape
- Hook-and-loop tape (optional)
- Staple gun and ¼″ staples
Set up an L-shaped sewing station with your sewing machine on one side and the ironing table on the other. If they are all on the same level, you’ll never have to jump up to iron again!
cutting it out
- Measure the width and length of your new ironing table.
- If you don’t have the time, ability, or resources to cut the wood yourself, go to a hardware store and have the staff cut a piece of ¾″-thick plywood to the measurements in Step 1. It’s so quick and easy, you might consider this even if you have the resources.
1). Add 6″ to both the width and the length of the tabletop measurements to determine the cut size of the insulated interfacing. Double that amount to determine the total amount you will need to buy.
My table measures 20″ × 36″, so I needed 2 pieces of interfacing, each 26″ × 42″. Since Insul-Fleece is sold in a Craft Pack of 1 piece 27″ × 45″, I needed 2 packages.
2). Cut 2 pieces of insulated interfacing to the size determined in the previous step.
1). Cut 1 piece of the ironing board cover fabric to the same cut size as the insulated interfacing. A sturdier fabric will hold up nicely under the heavy use of ironing.
2). You’ll need an extra ¼ yard of fabric for the pocket unit, but this could be a different fabric. Use a clear, gridded ruler to mark and cut the following pieces:
- 1 rectangle 5″ × 4″ for the bottom pocket
- 1 rectangle 5″ × 6″ for the top pocket
- 2 rectangles 5″ × 10″ for the backing
1). Refer to Bench Redo, Stapling It, Steps 1–4 (page 58), to staple both layers of insulated interfacing together as a single layer onto the cut plywood. You only need to staple twice on each side.
2). At a corner of the plywood, fold the corner of the interfacing inward and staple it in place across the corner, about 1″ away from the point. Cut the interfacing off diagonally.
3). Fold the loose interfacing in to the center from either side of the corner at a 45° angle. With a marker, draw a line along the 45° fold line. Unfold and cut the interfacing away from between the marker line and the corner of the board. Butt the cut edges up against each other and staple in place.
4). Repeat Steps 2 and 3 on the remaining corners.
1). Repeat Steps 1 and 2 of the insulated interfacing process for the canvas.
2). Fold the extra fabric neatly at the corners (instead of trimming it) and staple the folds in place.
3). Continue stapling the canvas all the way around the plywood. Keep the staples closer together for the canvas, about 2″ apart.
sewing it up
1). Refer to Bias Tape to trim the top 5″ edge of the 2 pockets with the double-fold bias tape. Trim the edges of the tape flush with the sides of the pockets.
2). Place a 5″ × 10″ pocket backing piece right side up. Pin the larger pocket, right side up, and then the smaller pocket, right side up, at the bottom of the backing, aligning the raw edges. Baste around the sides and bottom of the 2 pockets.
3). Pin the remaining backing piece to the pinned-together pocket unit, right sides together, along both sides and the bottom, making sure to leave the top free. Sew the 3 pinned sides together using a ¼″ seam allowance.
4). Clip the corners and turn the pocket right side out, as you would a pillowcase. Use a long point turner or chopstick to push the corners out.
5). Iron the pocket so that the seams are even and flat and the corners are sharp. Baste the top of the pocket closed.
6). With the ironing table upside down, place the pocket unit wrong side up so that it’s hanging from the left corner as shown if you are right-handed. Put it on the opposite corner if you’re a lefty. Position the pocket panel about 1″ from the side and 2″ in from the front edge. Attach the pocket to the table with 2 rows of staples—the first close to the edge of the wood and the second near the top edge of the pocket unit.
setting it up
The weight of the thick plywood should keep the ironing table from sliding around. If you need a more permanent solution, you could attach adhesive hook-and-loop tape to the bottom of the plywood and to the top of your furniture, but it may affect the finish of the furniture.
at home with modern June
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