Finished size : closed—18″ × 20″; open—18″ × 36″
This supply case is a great way to stay organized at home or while crafting on the fly. I love this because it folds up neatly for storage or travel, but when I want to work from my home studio, I can hang it up on my pretty hook and get to sewing. Now all my sewing tools are in one space.
Materials and Supplies
- 2 yards midweight home decor fabric
- 1½ yards lightweight woven fusible interfacing, such as Shape-Flex by C&T Publishing
- 1¼ yards double-sided fusible stiff interfacing, such as fast2fuse Light by C&T Publishing
- ½ yard 1″-wide elastic
- 2 packages (or 8 yards) of purchased ½″-wide double-fold bias tape
- ¾ yard 1″-wide webbing
- 1 yard 1½″-wide webbing
- 1 magnetic snap
cutting it out
Use a clear, gridded ruler and a pencil to measure the pieces. This sort of ruler, used by quilters, can help you create square corners. Mark each interfacing and fabric piece on the wrong side with its corresponding letter to keep track of them. Use a rotary cutter and mat to cut out the pieces quickly and easily.
Lightweight Woven Fusible Interfacing
1). Draw the following pieces on the nonfusible side of the interfacing as shown in the diagram. Do not cut them apart yet.
3 rectangles 5″ × 18″ for pocket A
1 rectangle 3″ × 18″ for pocket B
2 rectangles 8″ × 18″ for pocket C
1 rectangle 5″ × 14″ for pocket D
1 rectangle 3″ × 14″ for pocket E
1 rectangle 8″ × 18″ for pocket F
2). From remaining scrap of interfacing, cut 1 rectangle 3″ × 12″ for tab G.
Double-Sided Stiff Fusible Interfacing
Cut 1 rectangle 18″ × 39″ for the main panel.
Home Decor Fabric
- Cut 2 rectangles 18″ × 39″ for the inner and outer main panels.
- Cut 1 rectangle 21″ × 43″ for the pockets
- Following the manufacturer’s instructions, fuse the large marked pocket interfacing piece onto the wrong side of the 21″ × 43″ piece of home decor fabric. Fuse the 3″ × 12″ tab interfacing to a remaining scrap of home decor fabric. Use a pressing cloth to protect the iron and ironing surface.
- Cut out all the fused pockets and the snap tab on the drawn lines.
- Fuse a main fabric panel to the stiff double-sided fusible. Make sure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions; this interfacing is fusible on both sides, so you need to iron using parchment paper under the fusible so that it will not end up stuck to the ironing table.
- The main panel gets a lot of manhandling during assembly, so reinforce the fusible interfacing by basting the 2 pieces together ⅛″ from the outer edges.
sewing it up
Preparing the Pockets
Refer to Bias Tape to trim the top, wide edge of pockets A, B, D, E, and F with the double-fold bias tape, edgestitching it in place. Cut the tape flush with the sides of each pocket.
We’ll be working from top to bottom, dividing the case into sections. The pockets will be sewn together and referred to as pocket units. The main panel can be hard to handle as you add pockets. Roll up the bulk of the panel that you are not working on and clip it with a clothespin or binder clip.
- On the right side of a pocket A piece, use a disappearing-ink marker to draw vertical lines spaced 1½″ apart across the width of the pocket.
- Position the marked pocket 3″ down from the top of the fused main panel, both right sides up. Pin it in place and sew the bottom of the pocket to the main panel using a ¼″ seam allowance.
- Stitch on the lines that you drew in Step 1, making sure to backstitch at the top of each pocket for strength; you don’t want all your hard work to fall apart. These slim pocket slots are great for small tools.
- Layer pocket B on top of another pocket A, aligning and pinning them together at the bottom. We’ll call this the A/B pocket unit. Sandwich and edgestitch the bottom edge of the A/B pocket unit with the bias tape, trimming the bias tape flush with the pocket sides.
- With the disappearing-ink marker, draw 2 vertical lines 6″ in from the sides of the A/B pocket unit, starting at the top of pocket A.
- Place the A/B pocket unit, right side up, 7″ down from the top edge of the fused main panel, just covering the bottom of the first A pocket. Pin in place along the sides and bottom of the unit. Edgestitch along the bottom of the bias tape to attach the pocket. Baste the sides of the pockets in place.
- Stitch along the 2 lines drawn in Step 5, again making sure to backstitch at the top of the pocket for added strength, to create 3 pockets across the panel.
I am pretty fussy, so I used different colors of threads that matched the contrasting fabrics I used. I sewed up to the bias on all the lines with aqua thread and then went back and stitched the lines through the bias trim with red thread.
1. Pin the 18″ piece of 1″-wide elastic across the fused main panel 4″ below the bottom of the A/B pocket unit. Use tailor’s chalk to draw a line in the center of the elastic, and then draw 3 lines on either side of the center, each 2¼″ further out. Triple-stitch the elastic in place from top to bottom at the chalk marks. This elastic will snugly hold your thread spools.
2. Layer pocket E onto pocket D, both right sides up, aligning them at the bottom. Pin them together. Use the disappearing-ink marker to draw a 3″ line down the center of pocket E. Stitch the 2 pockets together along this line, backstitching at the top, dividing pocket E into 2 sections.
3. Place the D/E pocket unit on top of a pocket C, both right sides up, aligning them at the bottom. Pin together along the bottom and baste together along the sides and the bottom, using a ¼″ seam allowance. We’ll call this pocket unit C/D/E.
4. The C/D/E pocket unit is left open on the sides instead of at the top so that a large clear ruler can slide in and out easily. To finish the pocket, pin the remaining pocket C to the C/D/E unit, right sides together, along the 7″ sides. Sew both of the 7″ sides together using a ½″ seam allowance.
5. Turn the pocket right side out and press the seams flat. Baste the top and bottom of the pocket C/D/E unit closed, using a ¼″ seam allowance.
6. Trim the top and bottom of the unit with bias tape, referring to Bias Tape to finish the ends by tucking them into the back side of the bias tape.
7. Pin the C/D/E pocket 1½″ down from the bottom edge of the elastic, centered from side to side.
8. Edgestitch the pocket at the top and bottom on the outer edges of the bias trim to attach it to the main panel. Reinforce the beginning and end of each seam with a second line of stitching 1″ long.
- Pin the remaining pocket A onto pocket F, both right sides up, aligning the bottom corners. With the disappearing-ink marker, draw a vertical line down the center of pocket A. Stitch along this line, again backstitching at the top of the pocket for added strength.
- Align the bottom of pocket unit F/A at the bottom of the main panel. Pin and baste the pocket in place ¼″ from the bottom and sides of the pocket/panel.
Handles and Snap
1). Fold snap tab G in half lengthwise, right sides together, as shown. Draw a line across the width 1″ away from the fold line and then draw another that crosses it at the center, thus marking the center of the magnetic snap
2). Place the metal plate that came with the magnetic snap on the tab, centering the plate on the center mark from the previous step. Trace inside the openings and then cut the slits open and follow the manufacturer’s instructions to insert the male side of the snap.
3). After the snap is securely positioned, refold the snap tab, right sides together again, and then sew the sides closed using a ½″ seam allowance. Clip the corners and turn the tab right side out; use a point turner or chopstick to get the corners nice and crisp. Press and set it aside.
4). From the 1½″-wide webbing, cut 2 pieces, each 18″ long. Sew a tight zigzag stitch at the ends of the cut webbing to keep them from unraveling.
5). For the handles, cut the 1″-wide webbing into 2 pieces, each 13″ long. Again, sew a tight zigzag stitch at each end of the webbing.
6). Mark the center on the wrong side of each of the 1½″ webbing pieces. Mark 2″ out from either side of the center.
7). Pin the 1″-wide webbing handles to the wider webbing pieces outside the 2″ marks, ½″ down from the top edge of the wider webbing, to make 4″-wide handle loops.
8). Pin the snap tab to 1 piece of the wider webbing, matching the centers, placing the raw edge of the snap tab 1″ down from the top edge of the webbing as shown. Add the other side of the magnetic snap to the center of the other webbing handle as shown. Make sure your snap tabs are placed so that they will meet up when the supply case is closed.
9). Sew the handles and the snap tab into place along the edge of the wider webbing.
- On the right side of the remaining main panel, draw a horizontal line 1½″ from the top with a disappearing-ink marker. Mark the center of the panel along this line.
- Repeat Step 1, but 14″ from the bottom.
- Pin the 2 handle webbing units below the 1½″ line and above the 14″ line as shown. Edgestitch in place.
- Following the manufacturer’s instructions, fuse the back main panel to the double fusible side of the main panel with the pockets. The webbing with the female snap tab should be at the A/A/B end of the outer main panel.
With the pocket side of the case up, sandwich the raw edges of the case within the double-fold bias tape, starting with the edge of the bias trim flush with the bottom right corner. Refer to Bias Tape to pin and edgestitch the bias trim in place: Refer to faux mitered corners to turn the corners. When you reach the starting point, refer to overlap fold finish to carefully tuck the bias over the corner and back into the fold of the bias.
at home with modern June
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