Design Variation : Asymmetrical Hemline
For the skirt shown, I drafted two front pieces that mirror each other. If you would like them to be different, simply draft each front piece separately; just make sure the front matches up to the back at the sides so they join correctly.
Draft the Pattern
1). Trace your basic wrap skirt slopers onto drafting paper, but leave room around the front sloper. Make sure the pattern doesn’t have any seam or hem allowances included yet.
2). Lower the waistline the desired amount on both the front and back patterns. Draw design lines for a contoured waistband below the dart points and cut off the waistband on both the front and back patterns. Save the waistband pieces and use them to draft the waistbands after shaping the front (step 9).
3). Draw the front pocket opening at the side seam and draw the pockets. The pocket opening can be straight, curved, or even a fun shape; it’s up to you. Then, draw the pocket bag (or pouch) on the skirt. Make the pocket as deep as you want. Once you are satisfied with the shape of the pocket, flip the pattern over so the center front lines are together and trace the skirt front again to create a whole skirt front. Trace the pocket design lines too.
4). Draw the front shaped hemline. For this skirt, the hemline starts ¾” from the pocket opening on the left side and finishes at the opposite side seam, as shown. Make sure to draw the hemline below the pocket bag. Cut off the pattern along the shaped hemline design line.
TIP : To eliminate the darts as for the skirt shown, draw the waistband seamline at the bottom edge of the front darts.
5). Make the two pocket pattern pieces by tracing them from the skirt front pattern. To make the pocket, you need a pocket backing and a pocket facing. First, trace the pocket backing from the side seam to the outside edges of the pocket bag/pouch and along the top edge. Then, trace the facing from the pocket opening to the outside edges of the pocket bag/pouch. Add ½” seam allowance all around.
6). Finish the skirt front pattern by cutting the front away along the pocket opening; add ½” seam allowance to the pocket opening.
7). Draft a hemline facing. Draw a line inside the skirt 2″ parallel to the hemline. Trace the new line and the hemline onto separate paper and add ½” seam allowance all around.
8). Draft the skirt back by adjusting the hemline so that it matches the front at the side seams. Refer to step 7 to make a 2″ facing for the back hem. Mark the skirt back to cut the center back on the fabric fold.
PATTERN DRAFTING NOTE : I opted to face the curved hemline of this skirt, which requires drafting a separate hem-facing pattern piece. This hemming technique is shown. However, feel free to hem your skirt any way you would like.
9). Draft the waistbands using the pieces you cut off the skirt front and back in step 2. Lay the front waistband up to the skirt front and cut off the left front edge to match the shaped skirt front. Pin the darts closed on both front and back pieces.
- 2¼ yards of 44/45″ fabric
- ¾ yard of fusible interfacing
- 2 snaps
- Matching thread
- Contrasting embroidery floss (optional)
- Embroidery hand needle (optional)
10). Add ½” seam allowances to the skirt front and back, including the bottom edge. Because there is a hem facing, there is no need to add a hem allowance, only seam allowance. Add ½” seam allowances all around the front and back waistbands.
Sew the Strong Suit Skirt
1). Cut out the fabric. Use the newly drafted pattern pieces to cut the following:
• From fabric: two skirt fronts, two pocket backings, and two pocket facings, four front waistbands, and two front hem facings. Also cut on the fabric fold: one skirt back, one back hem facing, and two back waistbands.
• From interfacing: one back waistband on the fold and two front waistbands.
2). Apply interfacing. Following the manufacturer’s instructions, fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of two front waistbands and one back waistband.
3). Stitch the darts. If you have any darts in your design, stitch them now. The lower waist and wider waistband in this skirt probably eliminated the darts.
DESIGN NOTE : For extra color and design variation, add a running stitch with a hand needle and contrasting embroidery floss after the skirt is assembled. This detail also looks great in a matching color for a subtle bespoke look.
4). Assemble the pockets.
a) With the right sides together and raw edges aligned, stitch one pocket facing to each skirt front along the pocket opening. If the seam allowance is curved, clip into the seam allowance along the curve. Press the seam allowance toward the pockets and understitch ⅛” from the seamline.
b) Turn the pocket facings to the wrong side and press. If you want to edge or topstitch the pocket opening, do it now. Then, pin a pocket backing to each pocket facing along the curved edge with the right sides together. Working from the wrong side of the skirt, stitch around the curved edges, taking care not to include the skirt front in the stitching.
c) Pin the pockets to the skirt front at the waistline and side seam edges and baste them in place.
5). Machine-stitch the skirt fronts to the back with the right sides together and side seams aligned. Press the seam allowances open.
6). Assemble and attach the hem facings. With the right sides together and side seams aligned, stitch the front hem facings to the back hem facing. Press the seam allowances open. Pin the hem facing to the skirt hem with the right sides together and raw edges aligned. Stitch the facing to the skirt and clip any curves.
7). Assemble and attach the waistband. Try on the skirt and mark the placement for your snaps with a temporary fabric marker. Take the skirt off and hand-sew the snaps in place.
8). For the contrast stitching, thread an embroidery needle with four strands of embroidery floss. Hand-sew around the garment edges with a long running stitch through the outside layer, and not through to the inside of the skirt.
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