Design Variation : Asymmetrical Opening and Welt Pocket
The welt pocket is the most complicated pocket to sew; however, it’s completely doable if you take your time. The “welts” refer to the two folds used to hold the pocket closed when it’s not in use. The professional edge of these pockets will impress both fellow sewers and fashion lovers.
Draft the Pattern
1). Trace your basic high-waisted skirt front and back patterns onto drafting paper. Do not add any seam or hem allowances yet. Change the design to a one-dart silhouette.
2). Draft the skirt front.
a) Trace the skirt front and then flip the pattern over so the center fronts are aligned and trace it again to draft a whole skirt front. Draw a design line as desired for the asymmetrical opening.
b) Cut apart the skirt front along the opening. Cut the top pieces apart along the dart legs and label them as indicated. Add ½” seam allowance and 2″ hem allowance.
3). Place the pocket. The pocket on this skirt is stitched about 5½” from the top edge. Draw a straight line equal in length to the desired pocket opening on the pattern at the desired location.
4). Draft the bag for the welt pocket. Draw the pattern twice as long as the desired pocket size + 1″ (the pocket for this skirt is 5″ wide × 4″ long). Mark the center fold on the pattern. Then draw the pocket opening 1″ below the center fold and ½” wide. The sides of the pocket opening should end ½” inside each side edge. Add ¼” seam allowance around the outside edges of the entire pocket.
5). Draft the skirt back. Draft a vent (kick pleat) to complement the design elements on the front of the skirt, and to allow for walking.
6). Draft the front and back facings. Trace the top edge of all the pattern pieces (skirt front, center front, side front, back) and then draw a parallel line approximately 2″ from the top edge to make the facing patterns. Trace the darts too, and then tape them closed to create the pattern pieces.
7). Complete the pattern. Add grainlines and registration marks to all of your pattern pieces. Add ½” seam allowance to all the pieces, except the pocket and three skirt front pieces.
PATTERN DRAFTING NOTE : A welt pocket can go anywhere on your skirt. Sometimes they are stitched parallel to the top edge of the skirt and sometimes they are at an angle. Look at the pockets on your clothing and in the stores for ideas. This welt pocket only requires one extra pattern piece. However, you do need to mark the pocket(s) placement on your pattern and you need to decide how wide and how long to make the pocket.
›› 2 yards of 44/45″ fabric
›› ½ yard of fusible interfacing
›› 11″ zipper
›› Zipper presser foot
›› Matching thread
Sew the Tough Luxe Skirt
1). Cut out the fabric. Use the newly drafted pattern pieces to cut the following:
- From fabric : one skirt front, one center front, one side front, one skirt-front facing, one center-front facing, one side-front facing, one pocket bag, two skirt backs, and two back facings.
- From interfacing : one of each facing.
2). Apply interfacing. Following the manufacturer’s instructions, fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of all facings.
3). Stitch the front and back darts. Press them toward the center front and center back.
4). Trace the pocket placement marking from the pattern onto the skirt fabric (this line is equal to the desired pocket opening width) and mark each side of this line. Then measure out 1½” beyond each side marking and extend the pocket placement line. Trace the pocket markings on the pocket bag pattern onto the pocket bag fabric.
5). Attach the pocket.
a) Position the wrong side of the pocket bag over the pocket opening on the right side of the skirt with the pocket openings aligned. Baste the pocket bag in place through the center of the opening, as shown.
b) Machine-stitch around the pocket opening through both layers.
c) Carefully cut through both the pocket and the skirt over the basting stitches in the center of the pocket opening. Cut a V at each end as shown.
d) Turn the pocket to the wrong side of the skirt, taking care to fold the edges along the stitch lines. Press the opening.
6). Create the welts
a) from the wrong side of the pocket by folding the pocket bag to create the welts to meet in the center of the opening. Press the pocket folds in place.
b) Hand-baste the welts closed from the right side of the skirt. Then stitch in the ditch around the pocket opening through all the layers.
7). Finish the pocket.
a) From the wrong side, fold the skirt away from the pocket at one side, exposing the ends of the welts. Machinestitch (or hand-sew) the ends of the welts to the side edge of the pocket to secure the layers together. Repeat on the other side of the pocket.
b) Still from the wrong side, and to finish the pocket, fold the pocket bag in half (over the welt opening) so the right sides are together and the raw edges are aligned. Stitch around the edges of just the pocket with ¼” seam allowance. Remove the hand-basting stitches.
8). Assemble the right top front edge of the skirt. With the right sides together and inside edges aligned, stitch the center-front to the side-front. Press the seam allowances toward the side seam. Repeat with the facing pieces; however, press the facing seam allowances toward the center front.
9). Insert an exposed zipper in the seam of the asymmetrical opening, following the exposed zipper instructions.
10). Center-back seam. With the right sides together, stitch the center-back seam, adding a vent (kick pleat).
11). Sew the side seams. With the right sides together and side seams aligned, stitch the skirt front to the back. Press the seam allowances open.
12). Assemble the facing. With the right sides together and raw edges aligned, stitch the back facings together at the center-back seam. Press the seam allowance open.
With right sides together and the former dart sides aligned, stitch the center-front facing to the side-front facing.
Then, with the right sides together and side seams aligned, stitch the two front facings to the assembled back facing. Press the seam allowances at the asymmetrical front openings to the wrong side.
Press the seam allowance around the bottom edge of all facings ½” to the wrong side and topstitch to finish the edge.
13). Attach the facing. With the right sides together, raw edges aligned, and zipper open, pin the facing to the top edge of the skirt. Stitch the facing and skirt together. Press the seam allowance toward the facing and understitch. Hand-sew the facing to the zipper along the zipper opening and tack it to the skirt at the side seams.
14). Hem the skirt. Press under the bottom edge of the skirt ½” to the wrong side, then another 1½”. Topstitch close to the inner folded edge, or hem as desired.
CONSTRUCTION NOTE : This method of making a welt pocket requires cutting into your skirt fabric to place the pocket. Make sure you double-check and triplecheck the placement so you don’t accidentally make a slash in the wrong place.
SKIRT-A-DAY SEWING Create 28 Skirts
For A Unique Look Every Day