Design Variation : Pegged Silhouette and Yoke
Create a pegged silhouette by reducing the circumference at the hemline. This retro style is surprisingly modern when it is made in sophisticated fabrics; it can be a perfect option for day or nighttime looks. Make sure you add a vent (kick pleat) or slit in the back to help you walk in this slim-fitting design.
Draft the Pattern
1). Trace your straight skirt front and back slopers onto drafting paper, leaving space all around for design features and seam allowances. Make the following adjustments:
- Change the pattern to a one-dart silhouette in the front and back.
- Lower the waistline and change the skirt length as desired on both the front and back.
- Draw a front and back waistline yoke that is shaped so it is narrower at the side seams and on the back, and falls below the dart point on the front.
- Draft a center-back vent as explained.
- To create the pegged silhouette, make a mark 1½” from the side seam hemline of both the front and back slopers. Make another mark on the side seam of both patterns about 7″ below the waist. Redraw and blend the new side seams from the hipline to the hemline.
2). Add registration marks to the yoke and cut apart the skirt front and back at the yoke.
3). Add fullness to the skirt front below the yoke. Do this by drawing two lines from the side seam to the new top edge of the skirt. Spread each slash line 2″ at the top edge to create two 1″-wide pleats as shown. Tape the spread skirt pattern onto paper and even out the top edge of the skirt. You might want to trace the front skirt pattern so it is easier to cut the fabric.
PATTERN DRAFTING NOTE : To draft the pegged silhouette, reduce the width of the hemline at the side seams. Deciding how much to take in at the hemline is a personal preference. You might want to make this skirt from inexpensive fabric to test how narrow you want it, or measure the circumference of a skirt you like.
4). Pin the darts closed on the yokes and redraw the patterns, smoothing the top and bottom edges.
5). Complete the pattern. Add ½” seam allowances around all the pieces except the center front and add 2″ hem allowance to the skirt front and back. Plan for a center-back zipper.
›› 2 yards of 44/45″ fabric
›› 1 yard of fusible interfacing
›› 7″ zipper
›› Zipper presser foot
›› Hook and eye
›› Matching thread
›› Temporary fabric marker
Sew the Velvet Crush Skirt
1). Cut out the fabric. Use the newly drafted pattern pieces to cut the following:
- From fabric : one skirt front and two front yokes on the fabric fold, two backs and four back yokes. Transfer the pleat marks onto the fabric with a temporary fabric marker.
- From interfacing : one front yoke and two back yokes.
2). Apply interfacing. Following the manufacturer’s instructions, fuse interfacing to the wrong side of one front yoke and two back yokes.
3). Fold the pleats toward the center front on the skirt front and baste them in place across the top edges.
4). Attach the front yoke. With the right sides together and raw edges even, pin the bottom of the interfaced front yoke to the skirt front. Stitch the pieces together and press the seam allowance toward the yoke.
DESIGN NOTE : For the pegged skirt shown, I added a slit in the back to allow for easy walking. However, this skirt would also look great with a center-back godet. For more on godets.
5). Attach the back yoke. With the right sides together and raw edges aligned, stitch an interfaced yoke to the top edge of each skirt back.
6). Assemble the skirt back. Stitch the skirt backs together along the center back, inserting the zipper as on page 40 and stitching the back vent.
7). Sew the side seams. Stitch the skirt back to the skirt front with the right sides together and side seams aligned.
8). Assemble and attach the yoke facings. With the right sides together, stitch the two remaining back yokes to the remaining front yoke at the side seams and press the seam allowances open. This is the yoke facing.
Pin the yoke facing to the skirt with top edges aligned and right sides together. The yoke facing should extend ½” beyond the yoke at each center-back edge. Stitch the yoke to the skirt along the top edges.
Press the seam allowance toward the yoke facing and understitch.
Press the bottom and side edges of the yoke facing ½” to the wrong side. Hand-sew the bottom edge of the facing to the bottom of the waistband to enclose the seam allowances, or stitch in the ditch from the right side of the skirt.
Hand-sew the side zipper edges of the yoke facing in place and hand-sew a hook and eye at the top edge of the skirt, over the zipper.
9). Hem the skirt. Press the bottom of the skirt ½” to the wrong side and then again 1½”. Hand-sew the pressed edge to the skirt with invisible hand stitches.
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