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Tag Archives: simplicity patterns

Creating Piping 2

Creating Piping

Adding piping into seams gives a lovely professional finish to bags and other sewn items. People tend to shy away from using piping as they think it may be difficult or fiddly, but it really is a simple technique and one that is well worth trying out! ...

Skirt with pleats (McCalls 5803)

How to sew Pleats

Pleats are folds of fabric that are sewn in place at the top edge of skirts and trousers to add fullness or ease. Pleats can be partially sewn down inside the fold, edgestitched on the surface or simply folded with the fold secured in a crossing seam and allowed to hang freely. Press pleats along the fold for a crisp look or leave them unpressed to create soft folds. Pleats can be sewn with an underlay fabric hidden beneath the pleat so when the pleat opens up, the contrast fabric is revealed. S...

Cambie Skirt with positive ease

How to Work with Ease

Ease is extra room built into a pattern. There are two types of ease: wearing ease and design ease. Wearing ease refers to ease needed for movement. Your clothing needs to be larger than you are so you can lift your arms and sit. It may be tempting to choose the size with little to no ease, but that will be uncomfortable and the seams may tear over time. On the other hand, too much ease will result in clothing that is too large for you. Design ease refers to extra ease added by the designe...

How to lay out a pattern on a border print (2)

How to Lay Out A Pattern On A Border Print

Border print fabric is printed along one or both selvedges, along the border of the fabric. The border can be narrow or wide, or it can cover the entire width of the fabric. Some variations of a border print include ombré fabrics that fade from dark to light or color to color across the width of the fabric. Eyelet fabrics with scalloped edges can be treated as border print fabrics and work well in patterns designed for border prints. ...

Bias pockets on a straight-grain garment, Archer Shirt (Grainline Studio)

Tips for Sewing on The Bias

Bias refers to the bias direction or the diagonal grain of the fabric. Just as the grain line runs parallel to the selvedge, the bias runs at a 45° angle to the straight of grain. Sewing bias-cut garments is challenging, but practice will help you become familiar with the behavior of the bias and how to work with it. Fabric cut on the bias has stretch and more drape. Try pulling on your fabric along the length and then across the width. Unless it has spandex, it won’t stretch very much. Now pull...